Ahh yes. I remember my first wedding like it was yesterday.
I was six years old and was the center of attention for two days straight (every kid's dream right?). I was all dolled up in a beautiful red sari with gold accents. My nails were painted red. I was actually permitted to wear lipstick for once. And I had more gold jewelry adorned throughout my body than you could rap about. Here's a picture of my six year old self with my father at the ceremony:
Cute, right?
That was my first time visiting Nepal after moving to the states four years prior. I imagine that most kids of immigrants are a bit reverse-culture-shocked when they go back to visit the motherland after some time in the new country. You get to see where your parents grew up, visit a million strange relatives that you didn't know you had, try different foods and hear a different language on the streets other than English, get married for the first time...
Wait, what?
Oh right! That was just me. Duh.
You think that's weird? Wait 'till you see what the groom looked like.
Here he is!
What a studmuffin, eh? In case you're wondering, that is a bel fruit. I know what you're thinking: "You married a fruit?" Technically, yes. Spiritually, no. That fruit is used as a representation of the Hindu God Narayan who the bride actually gets married to. So before you start snickering, let me remind you that I have had a divine union in holy matrimony with a deity. #Winning.
Before we address the question of "why" I think a vital question to address first is "how." How did these traditions come about? To understand traditions that are uniquely Newari such as Ihi, I think it's important to explore the cultural religious contexts. More than 80% of Nepal is Hindu with Buddhism being the next runner up at about 10% and Muslims, Christians and others making up the remaining population (Census 2014). Moreover, the Kathmandu Valley region which is where Newars are most densely populated is also where you will find the biggest concentrated populations of Buddhists. In fact, many Newars follow both Hindu and Buddhist traditions. Take my mom for instance. Growing up, I used to think that we were simply Hindus but then I realized that we have statues of Buddha all over our house. When I asked my mom about it, she said with great confidence, "we are Hindu Buddhists."
Um...okay.
I guess what she meant there is that there are beliefs and practices of both religions that she accepts and follows.
In contrast to this kind of duality in religious practices, other ethnic groups of Nepal who are staunch Hindus seem to be much more strict in their traditions and beliefs that have been passed down since ancient times that bind them in social obligation to continue. I'm talking about things like the early marriage system in which families marry off their daughters before puberty in hopes of lifting the burden off the family and attaining punya, or karmic merit (Bista, 1967). I'm also talking about the practice of Sati in which a woman is burned alive alongside her deceased husband as she is considered of no more value or status in society (Vaidya, Manandhar, Joshi, 2001). Of course, these rituals are very uncommon in present-day Nepal but they are still continued in very small percentages within remote parts of the country in certain villages. So before you go reporting these stories among headline news in places like the U.S. where Americans think that everything fed to them by the media is the law of the universe and is representative of other nations as a whole, do your homework.
But anyway, I digress.
What I am trying to say is that although the majority of Nepal does not maintain these traditional marital practices that directly put women in harm's way, there are rituals and beliefs that stem from those traditional Hindu values that are still in practice that reflect the continued underprivileged status of women in society. If you're a woman whose husband has deceased and you want to remarry, you may not get thrown into a fire, but you sure will get looked down upon by traditional members of society; or, if as a woman you are unhappy in your marriage and want a divorce, you're better off having a secret love affair. It may not be illegal to veto a marriage contract, but it is social suicide! There are so many unspoken but understood practices that bind women in Nepal to their unhappy or unfortunate situations that are tied to religious and cultural roots. For example, for Brahman-Chettris, marriage is a very spiritual act in which it is believed that your marriage and partner are both predestined (Bista, 1967). So if you don't like who your parents picked out for you, I guess the universe was just rooting for you to fail. Life sucks. Sorry.
This is where Newars are different. In order to prevent the loss of stature and the shame that accompanies widowhood as well as to enable women to divorce if they wish to do so, they established the practice of Ihi, the first marriage that a Newari girl experiences (Thapa 2008). A majority of Newars observe this symbolical arranged marriage of their daughters with a bel fruit before she ever marries a man. It is the general belief of Hindu and Buddhist Newar communities that a proper marriage with full rites can be held only once in a lifetime. Thus, any subsequent marriages, if any, are considered of only secondary importance. So a woman, if she wishes, can theoretically break her marriage with her husband by giving the gift of the areca nuts she received during the wedding back to him or by putting those nuts beside the dead body of her husband in the event of his death. Obviously, this is a very outdated way to end a marriage. Nowadays, a Newari woman can just flip the bird and the rest is understood.
When I first learned about the intent behind the ritual of Ihi, I felt very privileged to come from a culture in which my ancestors established a tradition that empowers me to divorce and protects me from widowhood. What a long line of progressive thinkers I come from. Way to be rebels and stick it to the man by creating a practice that does not place Newari women in a position of disadvantage like several other Hindu women in Nepal.
Upon further consideration, however, something didn't seem right.
Why is there a need for a ritual to give me a choice about my own life in the first place? And what exactly is wrong with widowhood? Why do I have to be "protected" from it? What is all of this saying about womanhood? And come to think of it, my Newari male counterparts certainly don't have to go through any kind of ritual that gives them such privileges or protection. They were birthrights from the very beginning! In fact, they have a very different set of rituals that they go through that we will get into later.
Furthermore, who says that performing this ritual will truly free a woman to divorce and remarry? According to a study that collected data via questionnaires from 62 women in Panga Des, a small Newar settlement, to explore the meaning of Ihi, most of the single women perceived these social customs as
symbolic practices of Newari culture as there is severe discrimination against single women in real life (Thapa 2008). Widows who had gone through Ihi still had social obligations to their deceased husband's family and even suffered physical and verbal violence. And what are the chances of a young widowed woman being accepted as a bride by a virgin groom? Pretty slim to none. Thus, Ihi does not make it any easier for a widow or a divorcee to remarry, it just makes it technically okay (even though socially it's still not). Silly, right? Thus, this study speaks to the paradoxes that exist within the culture in terms of rituals that mean and intend for one thing but in reality have very different (usually negative) consequences for women. So while these little girls are being adorned with garlands and gold and worshiped as auspicious, empowered, and consecrated, just as a queen or goddess would be in what appears to be a rite of passage celebrating their coming of age and an initiation of certain rights, what this ritual is truly reflecting is the subordinate status of women. Furthermore, it is reinforcing it.
A very different point of view on the practice of Ihi is given in an article that was written for the magazine
Hinduism Today in which the author went to Kathmandu as a Fullbright scholar to study Newar ritual practices and concepts of feminine divinity and was invited into the homes of friends there where she observed several rites of passages (Coon 2010). While her article gives insight into the significance, meaning, and symbolism in these practices, the conclusions that she draws from them is quite interesting. She discusses the central event of Ihi as a symbolic wedding in which the girl's father holds his daughter on his lap and gives her in marriage to a divine groom, making the ritual be not so much about a divine husband, but about a father and his daughter. Through Ihi, a girl enjoys full membership in her father's family and caste. I remember sitting on my own dad's lap throughout a good portion of my Ihi. The article then goes on to discuss the ritual as a celebration of the girl's gender and extracts the message of the ceremony to be one that conveys "a girl's person [being] powerful, generative, and good." I think the most interesting conclusions she draws of all are contained in her final account of her experience in observing the ceremonies:
"Perhaps that is why more than one Nepal-based Western father has had the ritual performed for his daughters. 'I felt so much pride in my daughters,' one said, 'and getting them all dressed up and doing the ceremony was a reflection of that.' Alexander von Raspatt, a Western scholar of Buddhism who is married to a Newar woman said, 'the Ihi and other rites of passage performed earlier have grounded the girls not only in the culture and religion of their mother, but also in her family.' For Ihi, like other Newar life-cycle rites, celebrates the development of an individual into a whole person, while at the same time weaving her into a sustaining fabric of familial and communal relationships."
A very different interpretation of this ceremony from an observing American scholar compared to a small settlement of single Newar women who have actually gone through Ihi. I think this incongruity speaks to differences of experience based on class and socioeconomic status. Personally, I think that both views can coexist but in their separate and respective realities. I imagine that within rural areas or smaller communities of Newar, the women who have gone through Ihi and are widowed or divorced do still experience discrimination due to negative stigmas, making Ihi seem like a very pointless ritual to them in terms of functionality. On the other hand, I'm sure that in bigger cities of Nepal, Newari girls who divorce or are widowed do not experience the same level of discrimination and negativity to the extent that women from smaller villages do. I would further argue that this is especially true of those Newars who live abroad such as the ones quoted in the
Hinduism Today article. I think the last line in the article that attributes Ihi to the celebration of the "development of an individual into a whole person, while at the same time weaving her into a sustaining fabric of familial and communal relationships" sums up exactly how those Newars experience it.
The latter definitely is more in line with my own experience. I don't believe my parents took me to Nepal to conduct the Ihi ceremony strictly for the dire need to protect me from widowhood and allow me to remarry.
Trust me. If I really wanted a divorce, I would drop a husband like a hot potato. Ihi or no Ihi. So there was no actual "need" for it. But rather, it was for the sake of maintaining a tradition that makes us uniquely who we are. It is a practice that has been passed down for many generations. My mother went through it. My older sisters went through it. So it was inevitable that I must go through it, too.
For me, my Ihi was a symbol of the first time I felt spiritually connected to my culture and Newar background.